Making stuffed animals

Stuffed animals (animals) - manufacturing. Skinning, processing, manufacturing sequence of a stuffed animal. Drawings.

  For making stuffed animals   it is necessary to stock up on different thicknesses with copper or soft iron wire with a corrosion-resistant coating. An acid-salt preservative mixture is used to make hides, and arsenic sodium is used to pickle and preserve them from decomposition, moths and skin-eaters (if these chemicals are not listed, sodium chloride and copper sulfate can be dispensed with).

Eyes of various sizes and colors can be made from plexiglass. To do this, cast a round lead ingot with a diameter of 8-10 cm, a thickness of 2-3 cm. Hemispherical holes are pressed in it: different-sized steel balls from bearings are placed on the ingot and the hammers are hammered half into lead. Wells make 4 mm in diameter - eyes for snipe and quail; 8-10 mm for ducks, moons, goshawk; 20-22 mm - for roe deer, pigs; ZZ-35 mm - for moose, deer and tours. Then, for each hole, the corresponding punches are prepared - iron or tin rods with rounded hemisphere ends - or solder steel balls to metal bar handles. For the manufacture of eyes with a diameter of up to 10 mm, pieces of sheet Plexiglas 1 mm thick are suitable, for eyes of 20-25 mm - 2 mm, 30 mm or more - 2.5-3 mm. Plexiglass is heated over a gas burner or a candle and cut into strips with scissors. The strips should exceed the hole diameter by 1-2 mm, if you want to make small eyes, 3-4 mm - for the manufacture of large eyes. One end of the strip is softened by heating and a square is cut. For further work, it is left to stay on the strip with a jumper of 2-3 mm. The corners of this square are quickly cut and rounded with scissors. The resulting circle, while still soft, is placed on the corresponding hole and pressed with a punch, the diameter of which should be less than the hole by 2 thickness of the plexiglass from which the circle is made. In this pressed position, the punch is held for 2-3 minutes until the plexiglass hardens. In the center of the resulting eye hemisphere, a pupil (black) is painted corresponding to the shape and size of the natural eye. The pupil is best done by attaching the end of a molten core of asphalt or bitumen to the sphere, which adhere well to plexiglass and do not peel off, which happens with some varnishes and paints. The rest of the hemisphere is stained with the color of the iris. It is also better to do this not with paint, but with a plasticine smeared into a hemisphere of the corresponding color.

To make a stuffed squirrel, the skin is removed from it through a longitudinal incision from the chest to the root of the tail. The tail vertebrae are pulled out without cutting the tail, trying not to wind the skin on the vertebrae, but to remove it from the base of the tail with an accordion. The skin is removed from the entire carcass. From the neck, the skin is wrapped on the head, the bases of the ears and ligaments around the eyes are cut, as close as possible to the bones and the eyeball, so as not to cut through the eyelids and the skin near the eyes. The lips are cut along the border with the gums, the nasal cartilage and chin are not cut, then the skull is firmly connected to the skin. The skull is cut off from the carcass, cleaned of muscles, the eyes and tongue are removed, the palate and the occipital bone are opened. Through the holes formed, the brain is removed from the cranium, and the septum is removed from the nasal cavity. The skull and the entire skin, including the inner surface of the legs and tail, are well impregnated with a saturated solution of arsenic sodium or salted with an acid-salt mixture or small table salt. Then a wire frame is made of soft wire (1.5 mm in diameter). From such a wire, one length is prepared about 60 cm long (equal to the length of the tail, carcass, neck, skull) and two lengths of 30 cm each. The segments from both ends are sharpened. The first segment serves as the main core of the frame. On it, the distance from the end of the tail to the hip joint is measured by the carcass and in this place a ring is wound in one revolution, from which the distance to the shoulder joint is measured and a second ring is wound in this place (Fig. 50, a). 30-centimeter segments are pushed into these rings until the middle. Around them, the rings are compressed, and the free shoulders of these segments are firmly twisted 1.5 turns around the main rod. Then a tow in size corresponding to the carcass is wound on this wire frame. An extra 2 cm of wound tow should fit tightly into the skull. So that the tow does not spread and the carcass does not change its shape, it is wrapped tightly with threads (Fig. 50, b).

The skin etched with arsenic can be worn on the carcass. The salted skin is pre-rinsed in clean water, squeezed out and, turning the fur outside, dried for 1 hour (with the remaining salt in the skin, copper sulfate reacts, which makes the skin instead of a blue greenish tint). Then the skin is again turned out with the mazra. The skull is dipped for several minutes in a saturated solution of copper sulfate. They also lubricate the whole skin, trying to prevent vitriol from getting on the fur, otherwise it will change its color. On the abdomen, the skin should be greased with slightly diluted vitriol so that its excess does not leak through the skin and dye the white fur. Within 0.5 h, vitriol is absorbed into the skin and dries.

After treating the skull with copper sulfate, lumps of tow, tightly rolled up to the size of the eyeball, are inserted into the eye sockets. They put a tow on the palate, and a layer of clay, gypsum or plasticine is applied to the places of the removed muscles. After that, the skin is pulled onto the skull and turned outward with fur. The muzzle is straightened, the skin on the head is smoothed and the ears are straightened. Then, from the inside, the front end of the frame is introduced into the middle of the skull box, it is laid together with the skin, and the neck of the carcass is pulled by the outgoing end so that its front end, wrapped in tow, fits tightly into the skull. At the same time, the skin is pulled on the neck and breast of the carcass.

Fig. 51. Making a stuffed roe deer:

a - carcass of a roe deer, b - a board with a skull mounted on a rod, legs edged and braided, c - legs connected to a board and a body braided by wire, d - stuffed roe

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The soles of the front paws are pierced by the ends of the first transverse wire segment. Towels of the bones of the legs are wound to these ends, in accordance with the size of the muscles removed from them. Then the skin is pulled over the carcass to the armpits. The opposite pointed end of the frame is poked into the tail, and the soles of the hind legs are pierced with transverse layers and treated the same way as with the front legs: the bones are wound with tow to the wire and the legs are pulled on them.

Pulling the skin on the carcass is convenient in this way: after the skull is mounted on the central rod, all four sharp ends of the wire, designed for the legs, and the tail end are wrapped on the back with an inclination towards the head. In this position, all the wire ends of the frame are directed in one direction and can be simultaneously, but gradually inserted into the tail and legs without risk of stretching and tearing the skin. Pulling the skin on the carcass to failure, the legs are given the original natural position - away from the abdomen - and the abdomen is sutured. This is done in a zigzag seam, piercing the skin with a needle each time from the side of the mezra.

For planting, squirrels pick up a chock with a knot (Fig. 50, c). In the knot, 2 holes are drilled into which the wire ends of the hind legs are pushed and the squirrel is given the characteristic sitting position of a hunched animal, and a lump is inserted into the paws. Artificial eyes are sized and inserted under the upper eyelids, and then the needle is tucked under the lower eyelids. At the same time, they make sure that the eyes are in the middle between the eyelids, are not bulged or pressed too deeply and look at the bump. After 2-3 weeks, after the final drying of the stuffed animal, it is recommended to lubricate the corners of the eyes with epoxy glue.

To make a roe deer head, the skin is removed by making a T-shaped incision between the horns, around the horns at the very top of the crown and on the upper side of the neck to the scruff (Fig. 50, d). Having removed the skin to the ears, the cartilages of the ear canals and ligaments around the eyes are cut, trying to do this as close to the bones of the skull and the eyeball as possible so as not to cut through the eyelids and the skin near the eyes. The lips are cut along the border with the gums and the cartilages of the nostrils and nose lobes are cut. All muscles and connective tissue ligaments with fatty deposits are cut off from the lips. In the ears, the outer fur skin of the ear is separated from the cartilage. The skin of the inner part is separated from the cartilage with great difficulty, so it can be left on the cartilage.

The entire skull is boiled to the base of the horn, then muscles and eyes are easily separated from it, and the brain and nasal septa are removed through the cut openings in the palate and skull (sawing off the occipital bone). Treated skull is etched with arsenic sodium or copper sulfate.

The skin is preserved with an acid-salt mixture. After 1-2 days, the bedsores are sheathed, etched with arsenic and kneaded. If the skin was salted only with table salt, it is rinsed in clean water, squeezed and dried for 1 hour. Then the skin on the side of the mezra is greased with a saturated solution of copper sulfate, taking care that it does not get on the wool. Cellulite is impregnated with cartilage inside the ear and the inner side of the skin of the ear. After half an hour, after the reaction of copper sulfate with sodium chloride remaining in the skin, the skin is cured and crumpled, no worse than after processing with a pickle.

To make the head of roe deer, chamois, gazelle or musk deer, twist a wire rod with a diameter of 4-4.5 mm along the neck length. The free ends of the rod curl into rings. One pair of rings is attached with screws or bolts to the board, and the other is attached to the lump, which is wedged into the skull box in place of the occipital bone and screwed through the holes in the frontal bone (Fig. 50, e). The rod is bent to the future neck, and the skull is turned to the side so that it is at an angle of 120-130 ° to the plane of the board. Then a tow, shavings or newsprint are wound around the rod and tightly wound with threads.

Tightly rolled lumps of tow equal to the size of the eyeball are inserted into the orbits of the skull.

The nasal cavity is filled with clay or gypsum, giving it the correct shape. They put a tow on the palate and attach the lower jaw. On the cheekbones and cheeks, on the places of the removed muscles, they also impose a tow or spread clay, gypsum or plasticine.

For etched and wrinkled skins, an oval ring of soft aluminum wire in polymer insulation is sewn into the mouth instead of lips in the mouth. A wire with a diameter of 3 mm (with insulation of 5 mm) is suitable for roe deer. For deer, round and wild boar you need a wire with a diameter of 4 mm (with insulation 7 mm). At the junction, this ring is connected by a segment (15 mm) of a steel tube, the inner diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the wire. You can use a polymer tube from the same wire. The ring is sewn along the edge of the cut of the lip, pulling it around the wire to the outside of the lip along the border with the hairline around the mouth. The bare part of the lips is tucked inward. After the ring is sewn in, it is bent in the corners of the mouth and tightly squeezed so that the tubes fit together. In this state, they are connected in the front part with a thin wire or a harsh thread (Fig. 50, g).

A thin but dense cardboard is inserted into the ears, cut out in accordance with the size of the inner part of the ear and protruding 5-7 cm outside the ear.

The skin thus prepared is pulled over the skull so that the eye openings coincide with the eye sockets. The muzzle is given a natural expression, under the crowns of the horns they tighten the skin and sew a cross section at the top. The ears are also given a natural position - slightly tilted back and to the side, tighten the neck with skin and sew a longitudinal incision until the scruff of the neck. The free part of the stitched skin should correspond to the size of the oval of the board on which the scarecrow will hang. On this oval the skin is slightly pulled and nailed every 2-3 cm with nails (copper or aluminum).

The eyes are selected according to the size of the pupil with the iris, but not the size of the eyeball and are painted black inside (fill with asphalt or bitumen). The finished eye is inserted under the upper eyelid and lowered with a needle under the lower so that it is in the middle between the eyelids, is not bulged or set too deep. Both eyes should look straight ahead (Fig. 50, d). The hair is combed and smoothed with a brush.

The finished stuffed animal is evenly dried in a dry room so as not to cause distortion. After 2-3 weeks after the final drying, the stuffed animals are coated with epoxy glue on the corners of the eyes, glued lips and remove the wire or harsh thread connecting them.

From large animals for making a stuffed animal, the skin is removed with a layer (carpet), as described above when shooting the skin from a bear and a badger. When shooting skins from roe deer, tour and other ungulate animals with horns, the skin along the middle abdominal line is cut from the base of the tail to the sternum, and not to the chin. Next, cut the upper part of the neck from the scruff to the transverse incision between the horns. The rest of the shooting and processing of the skin is carried out in the same manner as described above in the manufacture of the head of the roe deer.

When making a stuffed animal to its full height, taxidermists sculpt an exact copy of the carcass from clay or gypsum with the characteristic pose of the animal. After drying, the clay sculpture of the animal is layered with paper or layered with an even layer of papier-mâché. When the paper dries, it is cut into pieces and removed from the layout. Then these parts are connected on a frame of steel rods and glued. On paper carcass and pull the skin.

An artificial carcass of an animal, such as roe deer, can be made bypassing the stage of modeling from clay or gypsum. For this we need: 20 m of soft aluminum wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm, 20 m of the same wire with a diameter of 2 mm and a board with a height of 15 cm, a thickness of 2–3 cm, in shape coinciding with the lines of the back, back and front of the carcass. On both sides of the foot attachment points, brackets are stuffed on the board, or tubes are attached to which the ends of the leg rods are pushed firmly. A twisted twig with a skull mounted on it is attached to the front of the board (Fig. 51, b). For the legs using iron rods with a diameter of 8 mm. On the rods, on one side, measure 10 cm and bend the mounting ends at a right angle (these ends are then pushed into the tubes on the board). The rods are shaped in front of the legs, adding 10-15 cm below to strengthen the stuffed animal on the board. The back side of each leg is edged using a softer and thinner wire. Keeping the contour of the leg between the rod and the wire, half-arches equal to the muscles on the roe's legs are wound across them every 5 cm. Half-arcs are woven every 5 cm with a thinner wire. The result is a braided aluminum wire copy of the front and rear legs.

The body of an animal is made in the same way. First, 10-12 circles equal to the circumference of the chest and abdomen are prepared from a wire with a diameter of 4 mm. Their free ends are strengthened on the upper dorsal side of the board. Transverse circles are twisted longitudinally every 5 cm with a wire with a diameter of 2 mm. In places where feet should be attached to the board, it is narrowed so that the fastening ends of the hind and front legs can be pushed into the brackets or tubes. Finished wire frames of the legs and torso are repeatedly pasted over with newsprint. The paste is cooked on starch or flour with a saturated solution of copper sulphate (mold and larvae of flour beetles do not start on such a paste).

Roe deer are pulled on a finished and mounted on the board body dressed, pickled and wrinkled skin. First, pull the skin on the head, as described above, then the neck, chest and front legs, then on the hind legs with the body and sew all the cuts (Fig. 51, d).

Using this article, you can get some basic knowledge on how to make stuffed animals from poultry. The work is not complicated, but rather painstaking and certainly not for the squeamish. According to the example described below, it is possible to make stuffed animals from almost any bird; this does not require any special knowledge and materials.

Materials and tools for making stuffed animals:
- copper sulfate;
- wire;
- brush (copper sulfate will be applied to it);
- tow (or other stuff for stuffing, for example cotton wool or synthetic winterizer);
- glue (moment);
- quick-drying varnish (you can use nail polish);
- beads or beads to create eyes;
- knife;
- decorative pins;
- threads with needles.

Step one. Free the bird from the carcass
This is the most complex, painstaking and unpleasant process. You need to cut out all the meat from the bird and do this as carefully as possible, since the skin can be damaged. The most difficult part will be the head, but you also need to carefully consider the coccygeal part, you need to try not to cut the coccygeal gland. The skin also needs to be removed from the feathered feet, while it can be folded into a stocking, this is not scary. The work must be carried out with a very sharp knife with slight careful movements, a scalpel is perfect for these purposes. When the code with feathers is removed from the head, eye sections should be covered with a piece of plasticine.

As a result, after all the work for making the stuffed animal, the skull box and skin removed should remain.

Step Two Poison the skin of a bird
If the stuffed animal is not treated with chemicals, it will quickly disappear, it will simply be eaten by bacteria. For these purposes, a solution of copper sulfate is used. To create it, you need to take one teaspoon of vitriol and dilute to 200-250 grams of water. Next, the author takes a brush and paints the skin from the inside, you can not skip fragments that are not painted over. When the poison is absorbed, the bacteria can no longer feed on the skin. When working, you need to try not to paint the wings, otherwise the appearance of the stuffed animal may deteriorate.

As for the skull, it must be completely placed in a solution of copper sulfate. Now you need to wait at least 6 hours until the vitriol is completely absorbed into the skin.

As for the beak of a bird, it needs to be smoothed out with the smallest emery cloth and then opened with varnish, so it will look much more attractive. In order to colorize the eye, first you need to paint it whole with varnish, and then make the pupil by putting a drop of paint or varnish in the right place. The author made the stuffed eye completely black.

Good day to everyone !! Ahead is the final month of winter - February, which means that not far off is the fun holiday of Maslenitsa. I personally always look forward to this event, since for me this is an extra reason to have a great time with my family, well, holding an Maslenitsa week is always associated with warmth, bright sunshine and the arrival of spring.

During the celebration of Shrovetide, that is, a whole week, it is customary to bake and treat everyone to delicious, as well as arrange various gatherings with fun games and competitions. Well, according to a special tradition, on the first day of this week, a scarecrow is made and put, and at the end of the holiday, on Forgiveness Sunday, it is burned at the stake.

Of course, to make such a big girl-fun is hard for yourself, but to make small dolls is quite possible. Moreover, they are very relevant at the fair, which is always arranged on this holiday. Such crafts act as real amulets, and they are also performed at various competitions and occupy children, familiarizing themselves with ancient traditions. Today we will analyze how you can make such a souvenir with your own hands at home.

In general, do you know, or have you ever thought about why it is customary to stuff a Pancake week to burn at a stake ?!

It turns out that together with the scarecrow burned, people get rid of all troubles and misfortunes, and the ashes are scattered across the fields so that the new crop is good and the vitality is replenished and gives excellent results in any activity.

The simplest and most traditional material for making a young lady (a scarecrow is always associated with the female gender) is straw. This is due to the fact that it lights up very well and burns, well, in the old days there was always a supply of straw for everyone.

Another main feature is a bright stuffed outfit. And by the way, there used to be a custom, first to carry the doll across the village, and only then burn it.

We need: twigs, straw, threads, fabric, felt-tip pens.

Manufacturing process:

1. Put the sticks on top of each other, making a cross and bandage them at the junction.
2. You can make a head from straw or from fabric, paper. Be sure to draw a bright face on it. And tie a scarf.
3. Make a body from straw and decorate with clothes from different rags.
4. At the end, soak the product with water and nitrate, then dry the craft.

And here is a couple of schemes for making stuffed animals:

• Put together two sticks, fastened the straw and decorated with clothes

• Option with braiding hands

• Use of straw and thick threads

• Step-by-step photo instruction

• Craft from a bast

Along with the burning of "Madame Maslenitsa", unnecessary things are also burned.

  Master class stuffed Carnival paper

It is certainly not easy for city dwellers in our modern time to find straw. And then plain paper comes to the rescue. Such products are very cool to do with children, they are very simple and bright.

We will need: paper of different colors, threads, bright ribbons, toilet roll, newspaper and felt-tip pens.

Manufacturing process:

1. Take the threads and connect the two strips of cardboard so that you get a cross.
2. Wrap it with toilet paper.
3. Cut the dress out of white paper, fold it in half and cut the neck.
4. On the dress, put on a frame, fasten with a thread, and preferably with a tape around the waist.
5. Take a paper of a different color and make an apron.
6. Cut a scarf out of cardboard and put it on your head.
7. Draw a face.

And here are some other crafts you can do with the children in kindergarten and elementary school:

• Work option from corrugated paper and cotton pads:

  Making a souvenir from a broom

And the simplest type of manufacture of our crafts is considered to be a method using a broom. After all, all you need is to take a ready-made broom and dress it up. Now, look how beautiful it is.

• Make a braid out of a thin broom, and the body itself from a voluminous

• If you still have debris from a broom, then collect them together and make such a small doll

• Take a broom as a basis and with the help of cotton and fabric give a shape

And be sure to watch the video plot for the manufacture of such a souvenir. A great option for burning a scarecrow in the country.

  Scarecrow on Maslenitsa do-it-yourself school

Now I offer you a photo selection of what can be done for the competition to school. I don’t know how it is now, but in my school years fairs were organized, where amulets-dolls were sold and arranged.

• Here is such a nice option from straw, fabric and thread

• Cardboard blank, decorate with a broom and draw a bright face

• Another option using a broom and fabric

• Thread weaving

• Bright craft of cardboard, colored paper and fabric

• Or you can make such an option from fabric and foam.

• Symbolic dolls with a sun in their hands

• Crocheted scarecrow decorated with ribbons and fabric

  How to make a little scarecrow at home

And in the end I suggest you make a souvenir from improvised materials that every home has. The work is very simple, even kids can handle it.

We will need: newspaper, scissors, threads, colored paper or fabric.

Manufacturing process:

1. Cut the newspaper into noodles, like straw. Make strips as thin as possible. Instead of newspapers, you can use colored paper.
2. Now from these blanks form the head, body, arms and legs. And connect the parts of the body with threads.
3. Cut out clothes from unnecessary fabric or colored paper, dress a doll and tie a bandage.

• Or maybe you will like this fabric souvenir

• Or such a scarecrow

• Or a traditional version of straw

In fact, the stuffed Pancake week can be made from any material at hand, the main thing is good imagination and a desire to work. I wish you creative success and good luck in everything !!

How to make a stuffed bird?

If the decoration of trophy skulls, skins, horns, teeth and fangs is more of a technical nature, then the manufacture of stuffed birds includes the elements of fine art.
In recent decades, in addition to traditional stuffed animals in three dimensions, semi-plastic solutions have begun to appear - parts of stuffed animals fixed on the medallion, convex stuffed animals of plastic types and dioramas. Medallion solutions seem to emphasize the beauty and power of a loose fan-shaped tail or other parts of the body of the capercaillie, black grouse, hazel grouse, bustard, bustard, pheasant, the majesty and nobility of goiter and the shape of their neck at the current time. The medallion pieces are made so that they meet the high demands of applied art, faithfully reflect the inherent movements of the animal and produce a convincing universal impression. This requires a taxidermist to have good knowledge of the life of animals and birds, to study available photo documents and films about them. Unnatural, clumsy, irregular shapes of stuffed animals and medallion parts of them make a bad impression, and it would be nice if they did not appear at all in the hunting interiors.

From time immemorial, taxidermists have been producing semi-plastic forms of birds using semi-plastic gypsum casts covered with one half of a feathered skin of a bird. These semi-plastic figures were placed in a picture that represented the habitat of the bird. It is especially difficult to match the color of the natural feathers of the bird that cover the plaster cast with the painted habitat. Therefore, the drawn background of a wide space must be replaced by a semi-plastic-made, close and immediate background with the inclusion of natural elements. The most acceptable manufacturing of a semi-plastic image with stuffed animals is shown in the figures, supplemented by explanations.

Dioramas occupied an important place in the design of hunting trophies in the past, and even today they can be found in museums and training collections, at hunting and zoological exhibitions. Arranging dioramas for a typical hunting interior does not make sense. At exhibitions, dioramas are necessary so that visitors can see animals that are allowed to hunt in their habitat, so to speak, in a voluminous composition. The design and creation of a diorama is always trusted by an experienced decorator, who is also a hunter.

The diorama is divided into three parts: foreground, middle and background (background). An all-plastic stuffed animal is placed in the front part, made and arranged by natural elements of the animal habitat and occupying about 2/3 of the depth. The middle part of the diorama is made discreet, inexpressive and used to coordinate the foreground and the stuffed animal with the painted background. The backdrop is usually a suitable fresco (on the wall), which increases the depth of the diorama.

Dioramas clearly depict the life of animals in the forest, or in the mountains, usually in summer or winter. Shadowless diorama lighting, which is best achieved using theatrical reflectors, is very important.
  In the manufacture of stuffed animals tend to give them a different position. But for this you need to know well the life of animals, the ways of their movement in nature: during running or jumping, flying, attacking prey, in a duel with an opponent, while feeding offspring. That is why it is necessary for the taxidermist to feel the difference between the positions of the fox sneaking towards his victim, or carelessly running, or running away from danger, or chasing and grabbing his prey. The movements of the fox playing with the mouse are very graceful. Such a richness of forms and expression of various movements can be used in the manufacture of stuffed animals of all animals for which hunting is permitted. The approach and departure of a bird is transmitted not only by spreading wings, but also by the tension of the whole body, the position of the head and tail. The bird of prey looks different - circling, hovering in flight, attacking or flying with prey.

The most beautiful stuffed bird of prey - depicting it at a time when it grabs prey. To make stuffed predators, you need to know the various ways to master prey. Predators from the feline family sneak up on the prey and make a decisive throw, from the family of dogs they chase and hunt their prey, the martens steal it, daytime birds of prey immediately attack their prey, and nocturnal birds fly up very close and then also quickly attack.

In the manufacture and installation of stuffed animals no improvisation will help. Every movement of the animal in all the nuances must, so to speak, be faithfully observed in nature, in the zoo, studied from photographs and movies depicting it in a natural environment. An important addition can be sketches, sketches of the main and typical moments of the movements that we managed to see.

How to make a stuffed bird out at home?

Conventional and neutral forms of stuffed animals do not produce a convincing aesthetic impression. Unnatural forms make funny the nobleness of animals, and therefore, in the manufacture and modeling of trophies of this species, one must act very prudently, with the necessary diligence, conscientiousness, and especially with a sense of proportion.

The work of a taxidermist originates already from shooting, since only an animal that is not spoiled by a strong surface wound is suitable for stuffed animals. After shooting, extremely tender birds need to be laid so that they acquire their natural position: laid wings, straightened legs, and the main position of the neck and tail. Bloodstained feathers are wiped with cotton wool, tousled smooths, and cotton wool saturated with denatured alcohol is applied to bleeding wounds. The birds are transported with extreme care so as not to bend, to snap and not to break feathers. They are wrapped only after the carcass has completely cooled, so that it does not begin to deteriorate; for the same purpose, at high air temperature, denatured alcohol is introduced into places under the feathers and into the oral cavity, and cotton, straw or soft dry hay is placed between the packaging and the body. In soft or hard packaging in which the animal is wrapped, frequent holes are made with a sharp wooden stick or nail.

In the warm season, it is necessary to take out the insides immediately after the shooting. For this, in birds and small predators, the intestines are pulled through the anus. The end of the intestine is cut off from the stomach and tied so that the contents do not enter the abdominal cavity. The abdomen is cut, carefully pushing down the feathers with feathers, and in order to do this correctly, one must have basic taxidermy skills. Denatured alcohol is introduced into the abdominal cavity freed from the viscera.

The manufacture of stuffed birds and animals is entrusted to a good and experienced taxidermist; preliminary agree with him the form of a stuffed animal and coasters, background details. If necessary, it is provided with photographs, sketches (sketches) or drawings of the extracted animal.